lmala enkoriong (6)

Noun
Pronunciation: XXX
Ceremonial name for a small nklip decorated with skirai (cowry shells) and used by a bride at her wedding. She carries it on her back on the second day of her wedding. After the ceremony, the enkoriong once again becomes an nklip used by girls and women.

The enkoriong is carved of wood. It has a long neck that swells from the top The long urn-shaped lid, also carved from wood, is detachable and serves as a cup.

This bride’s lmala must be naasho (free of blemishes, and without cracks or repairs), marking it as a ritual object. If her mother doesn’t have an existing one that meets the standard for a wedding, then her mother will make a new one or she will purchase one from a specialist.

The enkoriong comes into ritual use on the second day of the wedding, when the bride is already married. She must separate from her mother and go to live with her husband. Depending on family culture, the bride may be ritually dressed in skins by her mother and other female relatives outside the door of her mother’s ngaji (house) within the manyatta compound. The enkoriong is strapped to the bride’s back as the last piece of traditional wedding garb. She may be given a milk-filled lmala nkirau to carry, or she may bear both an enkoriong and an nkirau — one on her back and the other in her arms. Milk plays a central role in this portion of the wedding ceremony.

The bride begins a ritual walk by moving slowly towards the father’s gate — the gap in the acacia thorn fencing that is the entrance to the ngaji (her mother’s house). Her father will have made a line of cut grass on the ground, marking the separation between the manyatta and her unmarried state on the inside, and her husband’s manyatta and her new life-state as a married woman on the outside. Her husband and his best man wait for her just outside the gate.

With the husband leading, followed by the best man carrying a lmala naililiori filled with milk, the three begin a slow procession to her new home and the completion of the marriage ceremony. The three (bride, groom, and best man) stop before ending their slow walk, when they are still very close to the bride’s birth manyatta. They kneel, and the best man, who is carrying a milk-filled small naililiori(one usually used to store sheep fat), pours milk into its cap, and hands that cap to the bride who then feeds him the milk. He replaces the cap, they stand, process a little more, kneel, and then the best man puts milk into the cap and feeds it to the bride, who takes the cup back and replaces the cap. They then continue the procession in silence. The bride is fed in this way three more times. The procession can take a day or two at a ceremonial pace.

After these four feedings are completed, the three stand and proceed on foot or by any conveyance they can afford — motorbike, a mattatu, land cruiser — to the husband’s manyatta. The one separation ceremony I observed took place in 2018, at the marriage of a girl about 12 years old (the age of my daughter, who was with me on the trip). The wedding was bathed in the child’s screams. Customs are changing, so the procession on foot continued only three-quarters of the way around the manyatta, at which point the bride got on a motorbike behind her husband. The best man filmed everything for Facebook.  

After the husband’s family makes a ceremonial donation of gifts to the bride, such as bracelets, beads, and animals — each presented with a ceremonial name, thus one doesn’t say, here is a bracelet, one says here is flama, by way of analogy in authorial imagination — the bride distributes the milk from her lmala to the assembled children. Then she goes into her husband’s newly built house, where she is met by her mother-in-law and other new female relatives, and they drink tea.

And so, finally, the young woman, after some small details, becomes married in accordance with ancient Samburu tradition. Until very recently, some brides would never return to visit their mother’s family. (As the Samburu were semi-nomadic, this “return” was not to a specific piece of ground, but rather to the manyatta where the mother’s ngaji was located, wherever that might be.) Even if the woman did return for a visit, it was for a brief meeting and took place 10 to 20 years after the wedding ceremony.

Description

Capacity: about 1/2 liter

Cylindrical wooden vessel with an urn-shaped wooden lid. The container’s long, straight sides swell outward gently below its neck to a swollen rounded base. The bottom is rounded. At its top, the container narrows slightly to a neck topped with holes stitched with colorful threads ending in colorful triangles; the stitching holds in place a leather collar or flange that supports the lid. The lid, which also serves as a cup, fits inside the leather flange. The lid is also cylindrical and roughly urn shaped, a little broader at the bottom than at the top, which is flat. The leather carrying straps are decorated with cowry shells and are about the width of these shells. One strap is attached to the lid. The cowry shells are attached to the long strap in a vertical orientation so the center of the shell is parallel with the side of the strap, while the strap that circles the top of the bottom is oriented perpendicular to the edge of the strap. It is not uncommon for the leather straps to retain some animal hair. 

The vessel’s exterior is painted black (animal blood mixed with ash) or stained red with ochre, or both. The lid also can be painted black or ochre-stained, but is otherwise undecorated. 


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This is the draft manuscript of the Samburu Milk Project, © 2024 William Rubel. 

lmala enkoiting (15)

Noun
Pronunciation: XXX
A small or medium lmala with a skin cup used for milking, drinking, or as a child’s lmala.

Samburu lmala nkoiting

The enkoiting looks almost identical to a naitu [Should this be spelled “nyatio”? Leave your remarks in Comments below], but can be distinguished by its narrower base. If there is an enkoiting being used for children, then its leather straps are undecorated, while if it is used by elders, its straps will be stitched with skirai (cowry shells). A murran (warrior) will never drink from this lmala.

The white of the cowry shell surrounding its center reminds Samburu of the white fat that surrounds the heart of the animals they butcher. (As with many cultures, the Samburu associate the heart with love.) As a sign of love, the wife stitches skirai on the straps of the enkoiting she makes for her husband. 

Description

Capacity: XXX

Noun
Pronunciation:
Small or medium-sized calabash with a skin cup/cap used for milking, drinking, or as a child’s lmala

Cylindrical wooden vessel with a detached lid. The vessel’s straight sides swell outward gently below its rim to a slightly swollen, rounded base with a flat bottom [Is this correct? Leave your remarks in Comments below.] The vessel’s exterior is painted black. Leather carrying straps of varying widths encircle its sides at the waist and support the base. The separate lid is often a plastic cup. The lid also can be painted black or ochre-stained, but is otherwise undecorated. [Is this description correct? Leave remarks in the Comments below.]


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This is the draft manuscript of the Samburu Milk Project, © 2024 William Rubel. 

lmala nkerai (7)

Samburu milking container called a lmala kini e nkerai

Noun 
Rel. lmala kini enkerai, n.
Pronunciation: ehn’-ghee-ahr-ee-eye

The nkerai is a class of lmala that includes the enkoriong, the woman’s wedding lmala. That becomes the kini enkerai when a girl child reaches the age of six or so and needs more milk than the nkerai — after weening until they need more milk at a serving.

This group of lmalasin is reserved for boys once they are old enough to start drinking cow’s milk. 

The small lmala that accompanies a bride becomes her child’s lmala. But normally the first newborn uses lmala naitu, which have a skin cup rather than a wooden cup. Children first from the skin because they don’t know how to drink without pouring milk.

The enkerai is among the smallest vessels in the nkoiting class of lmalasin. Enkerai come in two sizes: the lmala enkerai, with a capacity of about 500ml, and the lmala kine enkerai, which is equivalent to the sippy cup I gave to my infant daughter.

Enkerai are milk containers for infants of about six months, as they begin to supplement their mother’s milk with lmala milk. The lmala nkerai is used until the child’s appetite increases to the point an nklip or larger is more practical. 

Description

Capacity: about one glass of milk

Cylindrical wooden vessel with a cup-shaped plastic lid. The vessel’s short, straight sides swell outward gently below its waist to a  rounded, slightly swollen base.

The vessel’s exterior is painted black or stained red with ochre. Leather carrying straps encircle its sides at the waist and support the base. The separate lid is roughly cup-shaped, with sides that slope outward below a flat top, and fits over the vessel’s neck. The lid also can be painted black or ochre-stained, but is otherwise undecorated. 


Return to Types of Milk Containers.

This is the draft manuscript of the Samburu Milk Project, © 2024 William Rubel. 

Types of Milk Containers (Lmalasin)

Smoke sterilizing wooden milk container, lmala, Samburu County, Kenya, July 2016
Cleaning a lmala, near Wamba, Kenya, 2016

Lmalasin are the large homemade containers in which the Samburu of Wamba, Kenya, have traditionally stored and fermented milk from their herds (cow being the most significant, but also goat, donkey, and camel). Each lmala is fitted with a lukupuri (lid over the vessel’s neck that also serves as a drinking cup). 

Lmala is singular; lmalasin is plural. In its plural form, the word is the collective term for all wooden or gourd miking containers holding a minimum of two liters. Plastic containers, lepirra, are not currently included under the lmalasin rubric. A mala is smaller than two liters, and thus smaller than a lmala. Without a modifier, mala has the general meaning of “a small container.” To clarify which container is meant, there must be a modifier, such as mala naililoiri.

Every Samburu woman knew how to carve and decorate the different lmalasin. Specialist lmala producers once existed, so a typical lmalasin collection might include acquired pieces. The typical household collection reflected household dynamics, growing as the herds and family increased, and decreasing as the family itself matured — no need for so many lmala for infants if there were no infants. The collection also changed as herds declined.

The interior of each lmala is cleaned with fire before use, and then the container is used to ferment milk. (The video below shows how a Samburu woman cleans a lmala with burning botanicals and steam.) The botanicals used to cleanse the lmala interior will impart distinctive flavors, and also influence how long the milk will remain usable before becoming kong’u (rotten, bad).

While the word lmala is usually translated into English as “calabash,” only a few lmalasin are actually made from gourds. Most of the 20-plus milking containers used in the context of Samburu milk production are carved from wood by women. The majority of the different container types are reserved for use by specific genders or ages.

See the Introduction for a complete discussion of the lmala’s role in Samburu culture. My study also has some application to the milk cuisines of neighboring pastoralist cultures, such as the Pokot, the Rendille, and the Turkana.

Explore Samburu words for milk containers

The links below will take you to photos and in-depth descriptions of each type of lmala, including decoration and use. The containers are organized by basic type. Each group shares design elements and shapes of the lmala named in the heading.

Nklip group (round bottom)
All containers in this group are carved from wood and have a round bottom.
Nklip – distinguishing characteristics
lmala enkoriongbride’s lmala, selected from her mother’s collection of nklip
lmala entare – small; useful for goats
lmala loolmuran – only used by murran (warriors)
lmala njongor – for milk used for blessings
lmala ntutua – made of woven tree roots

Nklipnaitu group
lmala naitu – for children and women
lmala enkoiting – for milking, drinking, or as a child’s lmala
lmala naitu elpayan – a husband’s naitu made by his wife when they are first married
lmala naitu nang’orchiereki – a smaller naitu for the measure of one collection of blood bled from a cow for mixing with milk to make kule njuloti and kule saroi
lmala naitu elayiok – a boy’s lmala carried when the cattle move away from the manyatta

Nairoshi-lkantir group
lmala nairoshi – for collecting milk; can be used by anyone
lmala lkantir – stays inside the house; stores milk for murran (warriors)

Nkirau group (gourds)
lmala nkirau – can be used by anyone except murran (warriors)
lmala nyatio – gourd for churning ngorno (butter)
lmala naililiori – carried by the best man in a wedding procession

Seenderi group (skin bottom)
lmala seenderi – stores milk for the elpayan (husband)
lmala nkodoos – collecting container for milk, meat, or butter

Soroor
lmala soroor – stores camel milk

Ngoiti (flat bottom)
lmala ngoiti – to collect blood from a cow
lmala nkerai – container for boys old enough to drink cow’s milk


Lmala Preparation and Decoration
These links will take you to words for making, ornamenting, and cleaning lmalasin (milk containers).

Making and decorating the lmalasin
kerarang’u – bleaching the lmala
ldupasoroi – wood for decorating the lmala
lkaria – ochre for decorating
lodo – blood for painting
loriesi’e – scraper for lmala preparation
lorise le oriong – tool for lmala preparation
lorise lu nochuaa – tool for lmala preparation
lpirra – plastic cup
ltuda – sewing needle
lukupuri – carved wooden cap or cup
lwierset – tool for lmala preparation
mparuai – thread
nbita – tool for making wood objects
nchoni – skin
raanita – skin straps
saasaa e atua – small grater for lmala interior
saasaa e oriong – long grater for lmala exterior
skirai – cowry shells used in lmala ornamentation

Cleaning the lmalasin
airr – process of cleaning the lmala after use
musuti –  rag for the final stage of lmala preparation
sosian – stick used in lmala preparation

kichungi – sieve


XXX – Is there a word for the woven band? [Leave your remarks in Comments below]
XXX – Is there a word for the decorative stitching on the lmala? [Leave your remarks in Comments]


More

Use the following links to explore additional content collected through the Samburu Milk Project.

Introduction to the Samburu Milk Project
Dictionary Methodology and Acknowledgements
Stages of Milk Fermentation
Milk Taste and Texture Terms
Botanicals for Lmala Preparation
The Culture of Milk — Idioms and Expressions
Other Samburu Words
Milk, Music and Religionscheduled completion in late 2025
Milking Songsscheduled completion in late 2025

This is the draft manuscript of the Samburu Milk Project, © 2024 William Rubel. 

ulaash

Adjective
Pronunciation:
Utterly and absolutely tasteless, like water. 

Chai, porridge, or soup where the main ingredient has become an “ingredient,” because its taste profile can no longer be detected. This could be a 1:6 (milk to water) chai, or porridge that has no ingredient besides unga (maize flour) and water, but the preparation is so thin that it is basically water. 

Return to Milk Taste and Texture terms.

This is the draft manuscript of the Samburu Milk Project, © 2024 William Rubel.

meishiamu

Adjective
Pronunciation: meh-shah’-moo
Tasteless; doesn’t appeal to the palate. This word pairs with keidukulan, but goes beyond a mere lack of flavor to name “taste that lacks its essence.” 

Meishiamu can apply to milk, but is more usually mentioned in the context of meat and other foods. The term is the opposite of kemolok, which means sweet, perfect, and in harmony.

Nutraloaf, an American prison food that sits on the edge of torture, is often formulated to taste of nothingness. Its absolute lack of taste makes it difficult to eat, so its empty taste is part of the penal concept. The concept underpinning meishiamu is more subtle than something that is simply the nothingness of tastelessness. Food that is meishiamu has lost its intrinsic flavor, so the food is perceived to have a flat, empty taste — for example, goat meat that does not taste of goat.

An animal that has died from an illness or old age yields meishiamu meat. If someone living near a town or shop has such a carcass, they will buy fat, tomato, onion, and salt — ingredients to make up for the missing flavor. However, as one friend observed, you cannot really make up for what is missing, because you still “cannot feel the taste.” The drought-starved cow is skinny and has no fat, so all parts of the animal are tasteless, including soup made from its meat. 

Also, sick and starving cows are kenana (tender) because the muscles have broken down. This is not a texture Samburu appreciate. A friend who lived in Paris for some years says that most, but not all, Parisian steaks, are meishiamu. In this case, the tastelessness comes from the way the animals are raised. Indeed, healthy Samburu pasture-raised animals are notable for their intrinsic flavor, something that is almost entirely missing from meat sold in urban centers internationally. 

Samburu like their meat freshly killed, focusing their connoisseurship on taste rather than soft texture. Once, when I was a young man in Paris, I got chewed out by my host for praising the steak as “tender” (kenana) rather than for praising its taste. 

Milk is said to be meishiamu when the lmala has not been cleaned with burning sticks, or has been so poorly prepared that the aroma of the smoke left by the burning botanicals is not properly fused to the flavor of the fermenting milk. 

Animals that have fed on certain trees, such as lnduapor, lschipuiluo, and euphorbia, produce meishiamu milk. This applies to the milk of cow, sheep, goat, and camel. It affects not only the milk, but also the taste of the meat. Meishiamu milk and meat does not appeal to the Samburu palate as it lacks its essential defining taste.

Porridge cooked with maize flour and lacking all other ingredients, such as oil and salt, is also meishiamu. 

“You cannot feel the taste.” — Robin Leparsanti in discussion with William Rubel, April 1, 2016. 


Return to Milk Taste and Texture terms.

This is the draft manuscript of the Samburu Milk Project, © 2024 William Rubel.

lngusul

Adjective
Pronunciation: XXX
Strong, unpleasant smell and taste. Used in a general context, not just for milk.

Lngusul’s most common usage applies to milk from the poorly prepared lmala of a nkalani woman, in which odiferous bacteria are plentiful. When goats eat sukuroi or lopitara, their milk and their meat will be lngusul in smell and taste. Native Samburu speaker Robin Leparsanti’s goats eat lopitara and people from Wamba say they can taste it in the milk.

The word also is used to refer to anything with a strong smell, such as a poorly cleaned restaurant or bar. 

“Some people may not like it, but those who are used to it like it, or are at least used to it.” — Robin Leparsanti, Longhiro Lekudere, in conversation with William Rubel, April 1, 2016.

Return to Milk Taste and Texture terms.

This is the draft manuscript of the Samburu Milk Project, © 2024 William Rubel.

lkiraeu

Adjective
Pronunciation: XXX
The smell of milk, especially goat and sheep milk. Negative term.

Lkiraeu is the unpleasant smell of goat and sheep milk [Is it true of sheep milk? Leave your remarks in the Comments below] when at its strongest, especially during the dry season, and not yet placed inside a prepared lmala to ferment. The shift in milk taste from wet to dry season happens within weeks of the last rain. 

“The smell of the milk, particularly noticeable around sunset (5 or 6 p.m.) when the animal’s blood is very hot. Some girls say they don’t drink this milk as is smells too strong, not good. It also applies to the sticky residue left on your hand after milking goats. Before milking a cow they need to wash their hands as the smell would transfer. They are unhappy when this milk gets on their clothes because of the lkiraeu smell it leaves.” — Robin Leparsanti, Longhiro Lekudere, in discussion with William Rubel, April 1, 2016. 

Return to Milk Taste and Texture terms.

This is the draft manuscript of the Samburu Milk Project, © 2024 William Rubel.